Wednesday, January 25, 2012

Part Two - Pura Vida!

I left many of you wondering if we were genuinely held captive on a Costa Rican beach and the truth is, yes, I fully consider it a captive tourist trap. When I traveled to Costa Rica in 2000 as an exchange student, seeing a sea turtle was something special. These fellers can live to be over 100 years old and seem to be the wise men of the sea. Everyone could learn a thing or two from sea turtles, except the fact that they leave their newborn babies on the beach to fend for themselves against birds and hungry Costa Rican. 

I am so sad to say that we have no pictures from this excursion, but as I had eluded in my last post, we were utterly unprepared for what turned into four hours sitting on rotting wood until benches somewhere in the Las Baulas National Marine Park until all hours of the night. The other eight people with us must have paid extra to be informed about the lengthy stay we’d be on that beach as they came prepared wearing long pants, toting their iPads and bug spray. I could’ve lived without our spoiled entertainment technology. Heck, I was fine it shorts, but we when I say we were eaten alive, I kid you not. Costa Rica mosquitoes are what one would consider a typical Central American pest. They’re big, they’re hungry and took no mercy on my poor legs. Add in some creepy, little hermit crabs crawling over your feet, you’ve got a recipe for an itchy, awful experience that I continued to compare to a prison.

For the duration of our captivity – again, FOUR hours – we sat in silence because apparently you can’t talk while you’re waiting for the sea turtles to come on the beach to lay eggs. You also can’t take pictures because that too will scare the marine giants away. Not one of those damn turtles came onto the beach. I was sleeping on Kyle’s leg when the “scouts” came back to our prison bench to inform us that “no tortugas los noches”. I was so pissed. I wanted to see a turtle so bad, but it wasn’t in the works that night.

As sad as I was, the time before and the remaining part of our trip was spectacular. Having traveled in Costa Rica before, I felt like an experienced traveler and knew the ropes and hot spots to visit. Over ten years ago, I traveled on a dime. Today, Costa Rica is an incredibly expensive place to travel. Those Ticos have it figured out. Their eco-tourism theme of travel has boosted their economy significantly over the past decade. Those of us from the United States find great relief escaping the guilt of our frivolous consumption of non-renewable resources by staying in rainforest tree houses with composting toilets. Travelers have the chance to lead alternative lifestyles basking in healing mud pools or zip lining over incredible rainforest canopies. Anything extreme you can imagine, they offer it in Costa Rica.

Cost is always an issue on vacation, no matter how hard you try to let loose. Breaking it down, I found a lot of mixed reviews about what things cost. We traveled in Guanacaste which is home to some elite beaches of the country including Playa Flamingo and Playa Conchal. I traveled on hotel Groupons (do it!) so paying full price for other vacation luxuries was a bit of a shocker. To help demystify the Costa Rican travel budget, here’s a breakdown of what you can expect and tips that will help you stretch your dollar, or Colón – the Costa Rican currency – a long way.

Airfare
No easy way to put this other than it will run you about $900 a person to get to Costa Rica from the Midwest. However, if you fly United, you are allowed a free bag for your international flight and if you have a Chase credit card, you can get 5% cash back during certain times of the year on airfare. Chase also is current partner of United airlines and offers special discounts for in flight Direct-TV and drinks. I love Chase.

Food
Costa Rican’s have staple diet of beans, rice and for protein, usually chicken. This is called Typical Food and I love it. Depending on how brave you are with local eateries, you can score a sizeable plate for $4 USD. Ceviche, a white fish acid-cooked in citrus, is also common and isn’t too expensive.  If you’re looking for something a little more upscale, prepare to spend over $25 a plate. I was surprised with the amount of non-local fresh fish offered at the restaurants. But, nonetheless, it was delicious when we had the opportunity to eat at some of these restaurants.

Activities & Attractions
I found this to be the biggest surprise expense of all, but worth every penny (except for the sea turtle excursion) Budget yourself for these activities:
Snorkeling: $50/person. Also keep in mind that snorkeling the Pacific is not like snorkeling the calm turquoise waters of the Caribbean. It’s fun, but should the wave ben white capping, you’ll still be snorkeling scary-close to rocks. My advice? Ask for a water noodle!
-   Surfing: $50/person. I took my lesson from a Roxy certified instructor and that was a good decision. He made me practice paddling so hard, I’d never had a workout quite like it. Compared to the couple next to me who were taking lessons from a local kid with dreads who were being tossed in the waves like a dead seal, I was thankful for my boot camp instructor. Also, don’t try to be cool on short board if you’ve never done it. Cash in your pride for a long, soft board and actually enjoy your time in the ocean.

-   Zip Line: $70/person. Canopy zip line tours are the ultimate Costa Rican experience. There are countless zip line tours set up along the major tourist destination, but do yourself a favor and experience the grand supreme of all zip lines at Monte Verde. The road to Monte Verde is intense, full of pot holes, narrow, did I mention dirt? We thought we were on the wrong road for awhile, but our GPS was determined.  Remember our car, Winston? He took it like a champ and we were rewarded with a safe, credible and awesome tour through some of the most amazing scenery in Costa Rica.

-   Deep Sea Fishing: $250-$1,500. We were lucky to score a private boat from an obscure vendor sitting in a make-shift tent in Tamarindo. However, if you have eight people on your trip, you may want to rent a bigger boat that travels further to where those enormous fish with the spears on their face live (Kyle tells me, “those are marlins, Mindy.”)
Departure Tax: $28/person. Upon exiting the country, you must hand over $28 USD to leave the country. It’s actually pretty clever, they make money on you until the minute you depart.

Gratuity: Most restaurants already include a gratuity so if you’re feeling generous, you can tip a little extra, but most of the time, your sever is covered with this built-in tip.

I love this country, but alas I close the Costa Rica chapter of our blog.. So, to sum things up, Mindy’s three most important things to remember when traveling in Costa Rica:
  1. Bring bug spray and wear pants on a night time turtle tour
  2. Travel with your Chase card and get free money!
  3. Indulge in the flavors of Costa Rica and plan a sufficient budget for activities

Next up on Peeps in the Woods, learn how my wonderful mother sells vintage jock straps on Ebay! Goodnight everyone!

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